Jesuit Guide To Fashion: Pocket Squares

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Looking around Jesuit this time of year, you see endless numbers of blue blazers with the exception of the seniors, enjoying the senior privilege of wearing any jacket of their choosing. However, nothing sets these blazers apart from one another, aside from, perhaps, how many buttons they have on the front. During my freshman and sophomore years, I just wore the blazer, satisfied with the same jacket day after day, but as I donned my blazer this year, I looked down at my front blazer pocket– I had an idea. I rummaged through my closet and pulled out a few pocket squares. It was a small thing, but it made my blazer a little bit different from everyone else’s.

 

At first, I was concerned that I would be teased, but as I walked into school on the first day of blazers, Pocket Square in jacket, I got approving looks. Not everyone even noticed at first, as the fabric was subtly tucked into my pocket. Now, when people ask me about it, I suggest that they wear one as well. Honestly, the most common question I get is “do you blow your nose in that?” The response is very simple: NO. I don’t know if I have convinced anyone yet, but hopefully in reading this article, someone decides to partake in the ageless fashion.

 

Originating in the Ancient Mediterranean region, Wealthy individuals would carry around white linen, and the wealthiest would carry silk pocket squares, a rarity of the time. However, at the time, the squares were largely used for personal hygiene. Later on, in the Roman Empire, the squares were associated with the gladiator games as the emperor would use his pocket square to start the games by dropping it to the ground. Then, in the Middle Ages, knights would wear them as a symbol for a ladie’s favor. Pocket squares only came into particularly popular use during the reign of King Richard II in 1390’s England when the wealthy sported ornately embroidered linen pocket squares, but by 1700, they had largely vanished.

By 1900, however, pocket squares were a necessity of any stylish man. They could be made out of almost any fabric so long as it added to the outfit. Although they have wavered somewhat in their popularity since 1900, they are truly back in force in the current decade.

 

In order to accurately inform the Jesuit community about pocket squares, I talked with two very fashionable and qualified Men: Rob Brinkley, Editor of FD Luxe; and AP U.S. history teacher and Jesuit Tie Club moderator Mark Batik. Both men have a lot of insight to offer on pocket squares. In conversing with them, I was initially very curious about when they thought they were appropriate for an individual to wear. Brinkley mentioned that “a pocket square looks great anytime a gent wears a blazer or suit jacket, day or night.” Additionally, Brinkley agrees with me that pocket squares are “absolutely appropriate” for high school students because “Good style knows no age limits.” Batik would concur, saying that pocket squares are for young people “trying to distinguish themselves.”

 

When purchasing pocket squares, there are several important aspects to pay attention to: material, color, and the edges. The most common materials are linen, silk and wool.  All provide a different look. According to Brinkley, a “casual material can take the stuffiness out of a wool suit, and a finer material can lift a corduroy blazer.” They truly “elevate” the look of a jacket. For color, the biggest rule is to never match the tie and Pocket Square, a “no go” from Brinkley. Conversely, although Batik agrees that it shouldn’t “be too matchy-matchy,” he believes that it should go with the tie to some degree.  Lastly, the aspect that makes the difference between a cheap and an expensive pocket square is the stitching on the edges. A hand rolled edge will cost more, but it is the mark of a fine pocket square.

 

For finding a high quality pocket square, Brinkley suggests Brunello Cucinelli or Michael Bastian. These will run about $100-200. For mid range price and quality, both Brinkley and Batik recommend J Crew. This is where I personally buy most of my pocket squares. And finally, for getting inexpensive pocket squares in large quantities, I highly recommend the tie bar, where you can buy them for $6-8 each.

 

For those looking to only purchase one or two pocket squares, Brinkley suggested a “Blue chambray” square, which is “like a really fine denim. It works with every look and every color, even brown.” Batik recommends a solid color “because it would go with more than one thing.”

Lastly, for actually wearing the pocket square, Brinkley says to “limit the number of points sticking out of your pocket.” Traditionally, one would only have one point sticking out in a triangle; however, in current style, there does not even need to be any points sticking out; Just fold the fabric flatly and stick it in the pocket, or plump the fabric and just have it poking out of the pocket.

 

The most important thing in my opinion is to just have fun with it. Don’t worry about what others will think if you wear one. If anything, most people will probably compliment you on the added panache.

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